Côtes-du-Rhône Villages. What does it mean? It means only that a Village wine has been designated a rung higher than a regular old Côtes-du-Rhône. Côtes-du-Rhône Villages are slightly more expensive and, it seems so far, significantly more personable than your average Côtes-du-Rhône. This wine is predominantly made from the crushed felt juice of Grenache, though also includes Syrah and Mourvedre and, potentially, a few other lesser known varietals in small quantities. Tonight we tried two, both quite good:
2007 Domaine la Soumade Rasteau Côtes-du-Rhône Villages ($23)
2006 Domaine Richaud Cairanne Côtes-du-Rhône Villages ($23)
Rasteau
Have you ever met someone who seemed nice and friendly and easygoing at first, but then you go out and have a few drinks and--WHAM!--they're all up in your business? But in a good way? That's Rasteau. Big fruity nose, easy and deep layers of over-ripe flesh and lushy flavor but with that Grenachey structure. I keep picturing purple, overdue plums. But then, in the finish, a little cactus-prickle creeps over the tongue. Especially on the sides, where the wine hovers for a moment before fading out. This is 14.5%, so the BIGness is no surprise. All that alcohol adds to the luster. This wine was made for a meat sauce.
Cairanne
First thoughts? Hamburger. Blood, maybe thinned out, after all, by 5 milligrams of Coumadin. The Richaud flares up more quickly than the Domaine de Soumade. It's antsier, more nervous. The sparkle is nice, though, and the wine has a kind of light inside it that is refreshing after the intensity of the Rasteau. Still, as it airs out in the glass an overtone of bitterness makes itself heard. Not much, really, but the wine doesn't sail along so easily if you pay close attention. I guess this may simply be a more tannic wine, with a little more natural bite. Good, but not quite the experience Rasteau offered so easily.
