Monday, April 12, 2010

Side-Taste: Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Cotes du Ventoux

What is Chateauneuf du Pape? It's an AOC in the southern Rhone valley of France that permits 13 grape varieties. The wine is typically dominated by Grenache but includes any admixture of Mourvedre, Syrah, Cinsault, Counoise, and Muscardin, Vaccarese and Terret Noir in the reds and Grenache Blanc, Roussane, Picardin, Picpoul, Bourboulenc, and Clairette in the whites. I don't know a lot about this wine, except the other night I tried two and liked them both very much. I'm going to try a number of other Chateauneuf-du-Papes, so stay tuned. The other night, they were:

2005 Cotes du Ventoux Chateau Valcombe ($15)

I have to disclose this fact: this is not an actual Chateauneuf-du-Pape. To be precise, it's a different appelation, Cotes du Ventoux. Still, it's a comparable wine from nearby Chateauneuf-du-Pape using Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and Carignan. This was a very nicely balanced wine, with lightness of body and flavor and what I tasted as cherry, plum, and a light spiciness. A really affable and considerate little glass of friendliness, but it didn't really prepare me for what was about to come, which was . . . 

2007 Domaine Monpertuis Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($38)

Wow, I really liked this wine! It's my first Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and I don't know if I just like this AOC a lot or if this bottle was particularly good, but this was luscious, friendly, fruit-filled but round and restrained wine. The effect was of layers of taste, sweetness and dryness and light and muscle all splayed out and balancing perfectly on the whole tongue. Not just the tip or the back or the sides, the whole flat place. I just tipped over a little when drinking this wine, one of my true favorite bottles.

In fact, I liked it so much that I'm going to get another bottle soon to double check my impressions. Also, I'm going to pick up a few more Chateauneuf-du-Papes to expand my experience with the entire appellation . . .

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